Choose The Best Product To Exfoliate Your Face
You will learn what is an exfoliator, what types of exfoliators exist and how to use them to keep your skin healthy.
This post is a complete guide to facial exfoliators.
Table of Contents:
- What is an exfoliator?
- Why should you exfoliate?
- What is the function of an exfoliator?
- What types of exfoliators exist?
- How often should you exfoliate your face?
- How to choose an exfoliator? Directions for each skin type.
- How to exfoliate your face? Step-by-step.
- What to do after exfoliating?
You can find all references used to write this post here.
What is an exfoliator?
An exfoliator is a skincare product or tool used to remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin.
Why should you exfoliate?
You should exfoliate regularly to maintain a healthy skin texture.
Your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells every day.
But some remain on the skin surface leaving a dull, dry and ashy appearance.
These changes in the skin’s appearance and texture cause physical discomfort.
Psychological health is also affected when your confidence decreases.
Exfoliators work effectively to keep skin healthy, bright, and smooth. Makeup, serums and other products are also applied more evenly.
What is the function of an exfoliator?
An exfoliator improves the texture of your skin.
The epidermis (the skin you can see) constantly renews itself.
Old dead skin cells are on the surface of the skin, and the new and fresh skin cells are on the layers below them.
The old cells naturally shed (desquamation) and are replaced by new cells in a process called skin cell turnover.
With the regular use of an exfoliator skin cell turnover is accelerated.
The new and younger skin cells are shown on the skin’s surface giving the skin a smooth and tight appearance.
Exfoliators are important because as you get older skin cell turnover gets slower.
Meaning older people show new skin after longer periods than younger people.
Dead skin cells accumulate longer and require regular use of exfoliators to be removed.
Exfoliators are also beneficial to skin health.
Because they unclog pores, they help to reduce acne breakouts and comedones and brighten dull skin and overall skin tone.
Related: Skin Cell Turnover & Why it Matters For Beautiful Skin. (Coming Soon)
What types of exfoliators exist?
Two types of exfoliators exist – chemical and physical.
Chemical Exfoliators
Usually sold in liquid form (lotions, creams, gels), chemical peels or chemical exfoliant pads.
They are formulated with chemicals that gently dissolve the bonds that keep dead skin cells together, making it easier to remove them and wash them away.
These exfoliators are primarily made from acids and are more gentle than physical exfoliators.
The most common acids are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs).
AHAs dissolve well in water and act on the skin’s surface.
BHAs are stronger acids that dissolve well on oil and can enter the pore and act on deeper layers.
Related: Chemical Exfoliators – Ingredients Made Easy. (Coming Soon)
Physical Exfoliators
Also called mechanical or granular exfoliators.
They physically remove the build-up of dead skin cells by scraping off the skin surface.
It includes exfoliating products and exfoliating tools.
Exfoliating products – regular scrubs (cream-based), clay (has exfoliating properties), seeds, homemade scrubs, and granules that you scrub onto damp skin.
Exfoliation tools – brushes, sponges, body scrubs, exfoliating gloves and more.
Related: All About Face Exfoliating Tools. (Coming Soon)
Physical Exfoliation – Options That Require Professionals:
Microdermabrasion – a procedure that uses small crystals and a vacuum to remove the top layer of skin. New skin is formed.
This procedure is performed by a professional.
Related: Microdermabrasion – Benefits & How It Is Done. (Coming Soon)
Dermaplaning – Use of a surgical sterilized scalpel to gently scrape off dead cells present in the top layer of the skin.
Dermaplaning also removes any small facial hairs on your face.
Must be performed by a professional dermatologist or licensed esthetician.
Related: What Is Dermaplaning? – Are You Doing It Right? (Coming Soon)
How often should you exfoliate your face?
The frequency of exfoliation depends on your skin type and skin sensitivity.
Introduce exfoliators to your skincare routine slowly by exfoliating once a week.
See how your skin responds to exfoliators.
Always test the exfoliator in a small area of the skin for 24 hours before applying it all over your face.
If you observe no rashes, redness, or irritation over 4 weeks, you can gradually increase the frequency of your exfoliation according to your skin type (read the section on how to choose an exfoliator).
General Guidelines for exfoliators:
– Do not use the same exfoliator for your body and your face.
– Physical exfoliators should be used less than chemical exfoliators.
– Exfoliation shouldn’t be done every single day.
– The more intense the exfoliator, the less often you should exfoliate.
– Reduce exfoliator frequency if your skin develops dryness, redness, irritation or breakouts.
– Stop using exfoliators if you have a sunburn, rash, or open cuts.
– Avoid exfoliators that contain fragrances and alcohol.
How to choose an exfoliator?
Choose exfoliators taking into consideration your skin type and the type of exfoliator used.
All the recommendations made for each skin type are general guidelines and aren’t something you should strictly adhere to.
Adjust to your needs.
Dry Skin
Little to no exfoliation is advised. Once a week in the evening is enough.
Physical exfoliators are too rough for this skin type and cause irritation. Gentle chemical exfoliators are better.
Look for Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like lactic acid, glycolic acid and mandelic acid.
For melanated skin glycolic acid is quite strong and can cause irritation which is why it should be used carefully.
A maximum of 5% concentration is recommended to avoid burning the skin and consequent pigmentation problems.
Lactic acid is more gentle on the skin and can target pigmentation without irritating the skin. Look for a maximum of 7% concentration.
Mandelic acid is the best amongst the three for melanated skin because due to its big molecular size it penetrates the skin slower and does not burn the skin, avoiding pigmentation issues altogether.
And mandelic acid also brightens the skin and has been proven to fade dark spots in 4 to 8 weeks.
AHAs are better for dry skin because they work on the skin surface instead of penetrating the deep layers and pores.
This is important because dry skin lacks oil. You want to avoid removing the little oil you have left by using a strong acid.
Choose an exfoliator that is formulated with soothing ingredients like allantoin, bisabolol, and green tea extract, and avoid alcohol and fragrances to avoid irritation.
Oily Skin
Oily skin produces excess sebum (skin’s natural oil) that mixes with dead skin cells and pollutants.
This extra layer of dirt causes pimples, blackheads, acne, and clogs pores requiring a stronger removal method than dry skin.
You can exfoliate weekly with a physical exfoliator like a scrub or a clean flexible brush.
Chemical exfoliators can be used a maximum of 3 times a week.
Look for BHAs like salicylic acid. For melanated skin a 2% of concentration is perfect.
Salicylic acid dissolves well in oil and can penetrate the skin’s deep layers and pores. It effectively reduces oil production.
But it can be drying so choose exfoliators that contain hydrating ingredients like humectants (aloe vera, glycerin and urea).
Normal Skin
This skin type has a balanced oil production and does not require special care.
But the use of an exfoliator is still beneficial to remove dead skin cells that cause dull skin.
Exfoliate no more than once a week.
Both physical and chemical exfoliators are good options. Don’t use both on the same day.
A flexible brush and a cleanser or a clean washcloth that has been soaked with warm water are good choices for physical exfoliation.
BHAs that penetrate the deep layers are too strong for this skin type.
AHAs like lactic acid are milder and exfoliate without irritating.
Combination Skin
This skin type has areas of the skin that are both oily and dry.
Both physical and chemical exfoliators are good options. Don’t use them on the same day.
Exfoliation should be done based on your skin concerns.
If you worry about dryness, avoid harsh physical exfoliators (big seeds and big granules).
If you worry about oiliness physical exfoliators like gentle scrubs may be necessary. Creamy scrubs work better.
Chemical exfoliators should contain both AHA and BHA like the ones mentioned above and hydrating ingredients.
BHAs will clear out the pores while AHAs will remove dead skin cells from the surface.
For melanated skin use mandelic acid as your AHA and salicylic acid as the BHA.
How To exfoliate Your Face? Step-by-step
For chemical exfoliators (does not includes chemical peels)
- Cleanse your skin;
- On your clean and dry face apply 5-10 drops of the chemical exfoliator. Use your fingers or a cotton pad.
- Apply the AHA or BHA exfoliator over your face evenly avoiding the upper and lower eyelids.
- Wait a few minutes for the active ingredients to work (read the instruction on the exfoliator label);
- If it is a leave-on exfoliator you can continue with your regular skincare routine. Apply your serums, moisturizer and SPF;
- Although you won’t see the dead skin cells will fall during nighttime.
- If the exfoliator must be rinsed, then use lukewarm water. Splash generous amounts of water into your face several times.
- Pat dry.
Your exfoliating routine should include your neck, ears, chest and hairline.
Note: It is best to use a chemical exfoliator at night because the acids can cause sun sensitivity.
If you exfoliate during the day the use of SPF is required.
If you are using retinoids (vitamin A) avoid the use of exfoliators because retinoids also accelerate skin cell turnover.
For physical exfoliators:
- Cleanse your face;
- With wet skin apply the facial scrub gently to your face. Never apply physical exfoliators to dry skin;
- Use your finger to gently massage your face in circles for 30 seconds. Pay special attention to your T-zone if you have oily or combination skin.
- If you are using a brush use short, light strokes in circular motions. How long you exfoliate is more important than how much strength you use.
- Rinse abundantly with lukewarm water.
Your exfoliating routine should include your neck, ears, chest and hairline.
What to do after exfoliation?
Now you know what is an exfoliator and how to use it to keep your skin smooth and healthy.
But exfoliation is only the second step of a skincare routine and always requires the use of a third product after.
If you are a beginner at skincare, I advise you to start with this 3 step skincare routine that covers the essential steps you need for clean, healthy skin.
In this case, the next step is to use a moisturizer.
If you already have an established skincare routine that is working, the next step is to apply a toner.
I leave both articles below to help you integrate these steps into your skincare routine.
What is an moisturizer, types of moisturizers and how to choose the best one for your skin type.
What is a toner, types of toners and how to choose the best one for your skin type.
Disclaimer: This article is informational only. This article does not provide medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Any information published on this website or by this brand is not intended as a substitute for medical advice, and you should not take any action before consulting with a healthcare professional. If you have questions or concerns about caring for your skin, you should make an appointment to see a board-certified dermatologist.
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